When I think of “northlands,” I think of Canadian tundra. In New Zealand, people think of beaches. Growing up in the Northern Hemisphere, I learned early on that it’s just the nature of our world for temperatures to drop when you head north. But that was such a Northern attitude. When we drove north from Auckland in a camper van, temperatures didn’t drop—they rose. Of course they would! We were getting closer to the equator and farther from the South Pole! But it was still an unexpected treat to find that swimming in the ocean was delightful, even at the beginning of autumn. We also found that the region New Zealanders call “the Northlands” was remarkably uncrowded, with some of the best campsites we’ve seen anywhere, and filled with culture, history, and, well, oddities that you may not find anywhere else. Here’s a snapshot of what we found in our ten-day tour of the “far north.”

Note: For all photos below (when viewing on the website), click on images to enlarge them.

Beaches

The Northlands feature some of the most beautiful, uncrowded, soothing stretches of sandy shoreline in the country – and perhaps the world. Long walks, body surfing, snorkeling, and both sunsets (over the Tasman Sea) and sunrises (over the Pacific Ocean) are all possible. The water is the color of the Caribbean and its temperature cool enough to refresh but warm enough for swimmers to linger.

Camping

While you won’t find all-inclusive resorts along the Northlands coast, you will find a wide range of campsites. We mostly opted for either low-cost, Department of Conservation sites—very basic, usually with one or two toilets and maybe a cold shower—or “freedom camping” areas that cost nothing but are even more spartan. We were rewarded with million-dollar views, beachside breakfasts, and one dinner of native, green-lipped mussels that we collected from nearby rocks at low tide.

Hiking

Long treks are not why people come to the Northlands, but there are some particularly nice coastal walks. They snake along ridges, with cliffs soaring down to the ocean below. Often they pass through farmland, with sheep and cows as fellow travelers (hikers beware: watch your step!). And they all feature an astonishing variety of sweeping vistas, tree-lined paths, and bird-call concerts to accompany each step.

Northernmost Point

Having already visited the southernmost point of the South Island, we were determined to make it to the northernmost point of the North Island. Of course there’s a lighthouse marking the tip of Cape Reinga, and a similar signpost as we found in the south, which in this case indicates that Seoul and Vancouver are approximately the same distance away (6000 km) to the northwest and northeast, respectively. Where the Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean meet swirl blue and green whirlpools that look treacherous for any boat foolish enough to enter them.

Culture & History

Also in the Northlands is Waitangi, where an 1840 treaty between Maori chiefs and the English Crown led to the founding of modern New Zealand. The Treaty Grounds are now an historic site, where visitors can learn both sides of the story of this disputed treaty, as well as see a Maori meeting house, a massive ceremonial canoe, sculptures, and a traditional welcome dance. Maori culture is also found in many places outside of museums, as in sculptures overlooking a local beach. On the way to Waitangi, there’s also a fascinating museum featuring a New Zealander of German heritage named Hundertwasser. His art and architecture include quirky, non-linear buildings (including this museum), environmental posters, and a proposed flag for New Zealand that would unite rather than divide, as opposed to the current English-centric flag.

Odds & Ends

The Northlands also holds many surprises, large and small. We stumbled on a park surrounding a 2,500-year-old kauri tree, once prized for its wood and now for its longevity. We had no idea that settlers collected a sticky “gum” from the trees to make varnish and other products, and that it was also capable of trapping insects, as amber does. We found dunes big enough for a thrilling slide down on boogie boards, with a van at the base renting boards for $10. We found a hidden tea party in a trailside hole-in-the-wall, hosted by the closest thing to a bear you will find in New Zealand. And we found a “yacht club” befitting the rural, low-key, dry Northlands humor.